![]() ![]() Also has the "Made in USA." I bought it at a festivalįrom a dealer in a booth. I have another with identical neck that has serial numberĥ11316. In 1978, which is irrelevant to your serial number. If the serial number places it in the 1970s, it will have ribbons and bows inlays, fiddle cut headstock and two-piece flange if an RB-250. It then goes on to describe the rather more complex scheme introduced Its pretty simple: If the serial number means 1964, the banjo will have bowtie inlay and a full weight tone ring if an RB-250 and dot inlays and tone hoop if an RB-100. That can be dated by the 1st and 2nd digits as follows: "From 1975-1977 the number is typically found on a decal on On this list) confirms that your banjo is indeed a 1976 model: I would say your banjo is 1976 or slightly older?Īctually, the following site (mentioned previously by some one Unless they used a really schizophrenic numbering scheme, I bought my rb-250 new from Venemon music in Virginia in 1976. Oh yeah, and sometimes the model number is stamped in front of the other numbers. SO, an RB-250 with the serial number, 0002-10, would be a 2000 year model, built in February and it was the 10th one built that year. For example, if the banjo was an RB-250 and there was a 10 after the dash, that would mean that that particular banjo was the 10th RB-250 built. This number indicates which banjo in that batch, that particular model is. ![]() This number could be a single, double or triple digit number. But I do not exactly know, what makes it a Bowtie?Ĭhris, the first two digits indicates what year the banjo was built (00 means 2000), the next two digits indicates the month it was built (02 would mean Feb.), then there should be a dash and another number following the dash. Originally posted by jerrygarciasbanjofan ![]()
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